Maine Cruise 2018 – Belfast

Lunch with a view: rounding Cape Rosier.

From Northeast Harbor we made our way back west, retracing our path through Casco Passage, up Eggemoggin Reach, around Cape Rosier and on into Belfast.  It was a hot, calm day, until the breeze piped up as we approached Belfast. We had called ahead and reserved a spot at the Harbormaster’s Dock, which is very pleasant.  The views up the river, out towards Penobscot Bay, and up along the waterfront into town, are lovely.  It is so convenient for us to be alongside, especially with the dogs, and particularly when we are in a place where there is plenty to do.  We can both come and go as we please without worrying about who is stranded without a dinghy, and the dogs get ashore a lot more often, which is great for them. 

Morning coffee with a view.  The only time it was comfortable on the flybridge was first thing in the morning, before the heat took over.

Furthermore, for the three days we were in Belfast it was unbearably hot.  Completely un-like the Maine we are accustomed to.  We were very glad to be plugged in and have air conditioning.  It was especially important for the dogs, as they definitely have a hard time in the heat.  It was well into the 70’s by sunrise, and the humidity was oppressive.  By mid-day it was in the low 90’s.  Did someone say this was Maine?  I’m confused.

The Belfast Rail Trail.

In spite of the heat, Bruce spent the better part of a day giving Esmeralde a well-needed bath.  He scrubbed her top-to-bottom, and waxed her decks and superstructure.  The waxing regimen has been a work in progress as we try to assess what works and what doesn’t, and how much work the various products require to apply.  It’s a moving target, but Bruce is zeroing in on a plan.

In spite of the heat and the boat work, we still enjoyed the visit.  I was able to run the Belfast Rail Trail each morning.  I made the effort to get up and out before sunrise because of the heat and humidity.  It was tough running because of the conditions, but still a great place to run.  The rail trail is beautiful, peaceful, and especially in the early morning, largely shaded from the summer sun.

Our view of the waterfront.

The waterfront area was wonderful for Pepper and Mattie.  We walked them several times each day on the walking trail and through town.

We stopped into the Front Street Pub to cool off and hydrate (!), and made the obligatory trip into Rollie’s.  We tried to get pizza at Meanwhile in Belfast, but it was unbearable in their non-airconditioned space, and they weren’t offering takeout.  We did get in to Delvinos, but that was disappoint (for the second year in a row) so we might not try again.  We heard that the Neighborhood was very good, but alas we got the recommendation right before leaving.

I did a long post on Belfast last year, and I don’t want to repeat too much so I’ll refer you there for more.  Suffice to say, we enjoyed our visit.  The Co-op offered great provisioning with an abundance of local produce, niche products and meats (Bruce can’t get enough of their locally raised heritage pork chops) and the laundromat is the best we’ve seen in Maine: clean, large, with extra-large machines and staffed full-time.  I used it to do the bedding and dog stuff, which we don’t like to put into the washer on-board because the dog hair tends to clog the filters.  We left Belfast clean and well-stocked, and headed down Penobscot Bay to Camden.





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